Patrick Bouju needs little introduction in the natural winemaking world. A pioneer in low-intervention vinification, he has been producing entirely sulphite-free wines for over 20 years in Auvergne, France. Today he and his partner Justine Loiseau cultivate several small plots, amounting to approximately 9 hectares, in the village of Glaine-Montaigut. Some of the vines here are up to 120 years old with complex volcanic terroirs. Every aspect of the winemaking process is done by the pair, from hand-picking the grapes to bottling and labelling. M 2022 is 100% Melon de Bourgogne from low-intervention vineyards in Loire. Grapes undergo spontaneous fermentation in neutral vessels before ageing in buried fibreglass. Beautiful salinity and precise structure with delicate notes of lychee, Granny Smith apple, pear blossom and vanilla. M 2022 would pair well with oysters and aguachile.